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    • 1. 发明授权
    • Acid tenside-anion solution of chitosan and its use in cosmetic
preparations
    • 壳聚糖的酸性表面活性剂 - 阴离子溶液及其在化妆品制剂中的应用
    • US4603048A
    • 1986-07-29
    • US431573
    • 1982-09-30
    • Eugen KonradGuenther Lang
    • Eugen KonradGuenther Lang
    • C11D3/37A61K8/00A61K8/34A61K8/36A61K8/39A61K8/46A61K8/73A61Q5/00A61Q5/02A61Q5/06C08B37/08A61K7/06A61K7/09
    • A61K8/39A61K8/736A61Q5/02A61Q5/06C08B37/003
    • Acid aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions of a salt of chitosan, in which the anion of the salt is a tenside-anion of the general formula I[R--X--(CH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 O).sub.n --Y].sup..crclbar. (I)with R being C.sub.8 -C.sub.30 -alkyl or C.sub.8 -C.sub.30 -alkylene, X is O, COO, CONR' (R' is H, C.sub.1 -C.sub.4 -alkyl or C.sub.1 -C.sub.4 -hydroxyalkyl), phenoxy, n is 1 to 100, and Y is (CH.sub.2).sub.m COO.sup..crclbar. (m is 1 to 4) or SO.sub.3.sup..crclbar., as well as cosmetic preparations with a content of these solutions. The chitosan salt solutions are obtained by dissolving chitosan in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution containing, relative to the free amino groups of the chitosan, an about equimolar amount of a tenside of the formula IIR--X--(CH.sub.2 CH.sub.2 O).sub.n --Y--H (II)in which R, X, n and Y have the above-given meanings. The chitosan salts contained in the solutions possess good film-forming characteristics of known chitosan salts, but in the presence of anionic tenside form no insoluble chitosan salts. The solutions can therefore be used as skin care, hair conditioning or hair strengthening component in cosmetic preparations, particularly also in shampoos on the basis of anionic tensides.
    • 壳聚糖盐的酸性水溶液或含水溶液,其中盐的阴离子是通式I [RX-(CH 2 CH 2 O)n Y]( - )(I)的表面活性剂,R为C8-C30 - 烷基或C 8 -C 30亚烷基,X是O,COO,CONR'(R'是H,C 1 -C 4 - 烷基或C 1 -C 4 - 羟烷基),苯氧基,n是1至100,Y是(CH 2) mOO( - )(m为1至4)或SO3( - ),以及具有这些溶液含量的化妆品制剂。 壳聚糖盐溶液是通过将壳聚糖溶解在含有相对于脱乙酰壳多糖游离氨基的水溶液或含水醇溶液中得到约等摩尔量式II RX-(CH 2 CH 2 O)n YH(II)表面活性剂在 其中R,X,n和Y具有上述含义。 包含在溶液中的壳聚糖盐具有已知的壳聚糖盐的良好的成膜特性,但是在阴离子表面活性剂存在下,不形成不溶性壳聚糖盐。 因此,溶液可以用作化妆品制剂中的护肤品,头发调理剂或头发强化组分,特别是在阴离子表面活性剂的基础上用于洗发剂。
    • 3. 发明授权
    • Use of reductive compounds for strengthening and improving the structure of materials containing keratin
    • 使用还原性化合物强化和改善含有角蛋白的材料的结构
    • US06482808B1
    • 2002-11-19
    • US09700871
    • 2001-01-23
    • Christian SpringobManuela JavetUrsula HehnerThomas KrippBeate GrasserKirstin UhlGuenther Lang
    • Christian SpringobManuela JavetUrsula HehnerThomas KrippBeate GrasserKirstin UhlGuenther Lang
    • A01N5700
    • A61K8/676A61Q5/00
    • The composition for hardening, strengthening and restructuring keratin-containing materials and/or for increasing the volume of keratin-containing fibers, such as hair, contains from 0.3 to 50.0% by weight of one or more reductones, each having a —(HO)C═C(OH)— group. The reductone ingredient is preferably ascorbic or isoascorbic acid, a salt of ascorbic or isoascorbic acid, such as an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salt, an ester of ascorbic or isoascorbic acid, 6-O-palmitoyl ascorbate, ascorbyl phosphate, 2,3-dihydroxy-2-propenal and hydroxypropanedial. A method of treating keratin-containing materials or fibers to harden, strengthen and restructure keratin-containing materials and/or to increase the volume of the keratin-containing fibers by applying this composition and allowing it to act is described. A method of pre-treating keratin-containing material that is to be subjected to a chemical or physical treatment, such as dyeing or permanent shaping is also described.
    • 用于硬化,强化和重组含角蛋白的材料和/或用于增加含角蛋白的纤维如毛发的体积的组合物含有0.3至50.0重量%的一种或多种还原剂,每种还原剂具有 - (HO) C = C(OH) - 基。 还原酮成分优选为抗坏血酸或异抗坏血酸,抗坏血酸或异抗坏血酸的盐,例如碱金属或碱土金属盐,抗坏血酸或异抗坏血酸的酯,6-O-棕榈酰抗坏血酸,抗坏血酸磷酸2,3 - 二羟基-2-丙醛和羟基丙二醛。 描述了通过应用该组合物并使其起作用来治疗含角蛋白的材料或纤维来硬化,加强和重组含角蛋白的材料和/或增加含角蛋白的纤维的体积的方法。 还描述了预处理待进行化学或物理处理的含角蛋白的材料如染色或永久成形的方法。
    • 7. 发明授权
    • Hair keratin-reducing mono, di- and triglycerides of cysteine and
compositions
    • 头发角蛋白降低的半胱氨酸和组合物的单,二和甘油三酯
    • US5503826A
    • 1996-04-02
    • US330363
    • 1994-10-27
    • Guenther LangHans-Juergen BraunGerhard Maresch
    • Guenther LangHans-Juergen BraunGerhard Maresch
    • A61K8/00A61K8/44A61Q5/04C07C323/58A61K7/09A61K7/06
    • A61Q5/04A61K8/447C07C323/58
    • The new keratin-reducing substances useful in compositions for permanent shaping of hair are glyceryl esters of cysteine, especially the monoglyceryl esters. As monoglyceryl esters of cysteine 2-amino-3-mercaptopropionic acid-(2',3'-dihydroxypropyl)ester and 2-amino-3-mercaptopropionic acid-(1',3'-dihydroxyisopropyl)ester are particularly preferred. A preferred embodiment of the compositions for permanent shaping of hair consists of a ready-to-use mixture of a water-free component including at least one glyceryl ester of cysteine and at least one other component which is kept physically separately from the water-free component until the mixture is prepared. The compositions also can include other conventional ingredients normally used in permanent shaping compositions such as surfactants and thickeners. The compositions have a preferred pH range of 6.0 to 8.5 and contain from 8 to 28 percent by weight of the glyceryl esters of cysteine.
    • 用于头发永久成型的组合物中的新的角蛋白还原物质是半胱氨酸的甘油酯,特别是单甘油酯。 作为半胱氨酸2-甘氨酸酯,2-氨基-3-巯基丙酸 - (2',3'-二羟基丙基)酯和2-氨基-3-巯基丙酸 - (1',3'-二羟基异丙基)酯是特别优选的。 用于永久成型头发的组合物的优选实施方案是由包含至少一种半胱氨酸甘油酯和至少一种其它成分的无水组分的即用混合物组成的物质与水分离物质分开 组分直到制备混合物。 组合物还可以包括通常用于永久成型组合物如表面活性剂和增稠剂的其它常规成分。 组合物具有6.0至8.5的优选pH范围并且含有8至28重量%的半胱氨酸的甘油酯。
    • 9. 发明授权
    • Method and agents for permanently styling hair, with a base consisting of N,N-disubstituted mercaptoacetamides
    • 用于永久定型毛发的方法和试剂,其中由N,N-二取代的巯基乙酰胺组成的底物
    • US06399051B2
    • 2002-06-04
    • US09269901
    • 1999-06-08
    • Beate DanneckerGuenther LangWolfgang HanefeldHeiko Walther
    • Beate DanneckerGuenther LangWolfgang HanefeldHeiko Walther
    • A61K709
    • A61Q5/04A61K8/46C07C323/60
    • The present invention relates to a composition and method for permanently shaping hair, in which an N,N-disubstituted mercaptoacetamide of the formula I: or a salt thereof, wherein R1 and R2 are each independently selected from the group consisting of straight-chain alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, branched-chain alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, monohydroxyalkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, polyhydroxyalkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and carboxyalkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, is employed as keratin reducing agent. A process for making these mercaptoacetamides is also described as well as a novel mercaptoacetamide, N-ethyl-2′-hydroxyethyl-mercaptoacetamide. The mercaptoacetamides provide gentle and uniform shaping of hair in a pH range of 4.5 to 9.5 and do not cause allergic or sensitizing reactions.
    • 本发明涉及用于永久形成头发的组合物和方法,其中式I的N,N-二取代的巯基乙酰胺或其盐,其中R 1和R 2各自独立地选自直链烷基 使用具有1至6个碳原子的基团,具有1至6个碳原子的支链烷基,具有1至6个碳原子的单羟基烷基,具有1至6个碳原子的多羟基烷基和具有1至6个碳原子的羧基烷基作为 角蛋白还原剂。 还描述了制备这些巯基乙酰胺的方法以及新的巯基乙酰胺,N-乙基-2'-羟乙基 - 巯基乙酰胺。 巯基乙酰胺在4.5至9.5的pH范围内提供温和均匀的头发成型,并且不引起过敏或致敏反应。
    • 10. 发明授权
    • Agent and method for permanently shaping the hair, based on
n-branched-chain alkyl-substituted mercapto acetamides and process for
their preparation
    • 基于正链支链烷基取代的巯基乙酰胺永久定型毛发的剂和方法及其制备方法
    • US6153180A
    • 2000-11-28
    • US142576
    • 1998-09-10
    • Guenther LangBeate DanneckerWolfgang HanefeldHeiko Walther
    • Guenther LangBeate DanneckerWolfgang HanefeldHeiko Walther
    • A61K8/00A61K8/44A61K8/46A61K31/16A61Q5/04A61Q5/10A61K7/09
    • A61Q5/04A61K8/447A61K8/46A61Q5/10
    • The subject of the invention is an agent for the permanent shaping of hair, characterized in that it contains as active keratin-reducing substance a compound in accordance with the general formula ##STR1## in which R.sub.1, R.sub.2 and R.sub.3 stand for H, carboxy or a straight- or branched-chain alkyl radical, monohydroxyalkyl radical or polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 6 carbon atoms respectively, on the condition thatnot all radicals R.sub.1 to R.sub.3 stand for H at the same time;if R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 stand for H, then R.sub.3 is carboxy or a branched alkyl, branched monohydroxyalkyl or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 6 carbon atoms;if none of the radicals R.sub.1 to R.sub.2 stand for carboxy or have a branched alkyl, branched monohydroxyalkyl or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, then at least two of the radicals R.sub.1, R.sub.2 or R.sub.3 stand for a straight-chain alkyl, monohydroxyalkyl or polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 6 carbon atoms andif one of the radicals is carboxy, then the other two radicals are not carboxy at the same time.The agent allows for gentle, even shaping of the hair in a way that protects the skin and the hair, at a pH range of 6.5 to 9.5, without causing allergic and sensitizing reactions.
    • PCT No.PCT / EP97 / 06860 Sec。 371日期:1998年9月10日 102(e)1998年9月10日PCT 1997年12月9日PCT PCT。 第WO98 / 30197号公报 日本1998年7月16日本发明的主题是头发永久成形剂,其特征在于,其含有作为活性角蛋白还原剂的化合物,其中R1,R2和R3代表H, 羧基或直链或支链烷基,单羟基烷基基团或具有1至6个碳原子的多羟基烷基基团,条件是不是所有基团R 1至R 3同时代表H; 如果R1和R2代表H,则R3是羧基或具有1-6个碳原子的支链烷基,支链一羟基烷基或支链多羟基烷基; 如果基团R 1至R 2不能代表羧基或具有1至6个碳原子的支链烷基,支化单羟基烷基或支链多羟基烷基,则基团R 1,R 2或R 3中的至少两个表示直链烷基, 具有1至6个碳原子的单羟基烷基或多羟基烷基,如果其中一个基团是羧基,则其它两个基团不是同时为羧基。 该试剂允许以6.5至9.5的pH范围以保护皮肤和毛发的方式温和,均匀地成形,而不引起过敏和敏化反应。