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    • 5. 发明申请
    • NOVEL COSMETIC CREAM COMPOSITION
    • 新型化妆油组合物
    • WO2008104591A2
    • 2008-09-04
    • PCT/EP2008/052433
    • 2008-02-28
    • UNILEVER PLCUNILEVER N.V.HINDUSTAN UNILEVER LIMITEDDASGUPTA, Bivash, RanjanHUANG, LeiSANZGIRI, Vibhav, RamraoSETHNA, Simone, DosuSHAH, Pankaj, Chandrakant
    • DASGUPTA, Bivash, RanjanHUANG, LeiSANZGIRI, Vibhav, RamraoSETHNA, Simone, DosuSHAH, Pankaj, Chandrakant
    • A61K8/25A61K8/36A61K8/73A61Q19/00
    • A61K8/732A61K8/25A61K8/361A61Q19/00
    • Vanishing creams remain one of the most widely used cosmetics, as they provide unique sensory and tactile benefits. These include inter alia, a dry and matte end-feel, which helps to overcome the oily and shiny appearance of the skin. Vanishing creams spread easily on the skin and get rapidly absorbed therein. Moreover, use of such creams help to reduce the dryness of skin thereby alleviating flakes, cracks and roughness. Owing to their widespread use, they serve as effective vehicles for delivery of actives. Traditional vanishing creams contain high levels of fatty acid, generally stearic acid or a combination thereof with palmitic acid, typically ranging from 16 to 20 % by weight. They also contain salts of fatty acids, generally alkali metal soap, which acts as the emulsifier. However the high level of fatty acids, typically used in the formulation, poses problems with chemical and physical stability of some actives, especially acidic actives. On reducing fatty acid content, certain consumer desired sensory benefits, such as rub-in effect and the viscosity of the cream, are adversely affected. In addition to the above, it is known that in vanishing creams containing high levels of stearic acid, especially containing high levels of actives such as niacinamide, the end-feel and sensorial aspects of the cream are also adversely affected. The present inventors have found that vanishing creams containing relatively lower amounts of fatty acid can be made by including particulate matter selected from talc, starch or its derivatives, along with a relatively higher amount of fatty acid soap, without significantly affecting the above-mentioned benefits desired by the consumers. The present inventors have also found that on application of the composition to the skin, an instant glow is observed, which is a much sought after product attribute.
    • 消失霜仍然是最广泛使用的化妆品之一,因为它们具有独特的感官和触觉效果。 这些特别包括干燥和无光泽的终端感,有助于克服皮肤的油性和光泽的外观。 消失的霜在皮肤上容易扩散并迅速吸收。 此外,使用这种乳膏有助于减少皮肤的干燥,从而减轻薄片,裂纹和粗糙度。 由于它们广泛使用,它们作为提供活性物质的有效载体。 传统的消泡霜含有高水平的脂肪酸,通常是硬脂酸或其与棕榈酸的组合,通常为16至20重量%。 它们还含有作为乳化剂的脂肪酸盐,通常为碱金属皂。 然而,通常用于制剂中的高水平脂肪酸对某些活性物质,特别是酸性活性物质的化学和物理稳定性构成问题。 关于减少脂肪酸含量,某些消费者期望的感觉益处,如摩擦效应和奶油的粘度受到不利影响。 除了上述之外,已知在含有高含量的硬脂酸的消泡霜中,特别是含有高含量的活性物质如烟酰胺,乳膏的终点和感官方面也受到不利影响。 本发明人发现含有相对较少量的脂肪酸的消失霜可以通过包括选自滑石,淀粉或其衍生物的颗粒物质以及相对较高量的脂肪酸皂来制备,而不显着影响上述益处 被消费者所期望。 本发明人还发现,在将组合物应用于皮肤时,观察到即时发光,这是一个非常需要的产品属性。